A Weekend In…
Paradero Todos Santos, Mexico
Spa treatments, swimming in the sunshine, and ultimate relaxation on the perfect weekend break in Baja
About Mexico
Language: Spanish
Time zone: UTC-6 (CST)
Currency: Mexican Peso (MXN)
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Travel to the desert’s edge for a hotel experience unlike any other: At Paradero Todos Santos, roughly hewn stone buildings and nature-inspired furniture and design provide a refuge from day-to-day life. Every detail is considered here—whether you’re looking for a heavenly spot for a night’s stargazing or an infinity pool with panoramic views, for afternoon naps, or perfectly served long lunches surrounded by the beauty of the desert, this is the dream destination and a different kind of Mexican holiday.
My backstory
On a mission to preserve over 160 acres of family farms in this unspoiled, rugged, cactus-strewn desert landscape in the middle of Baja California (the long, thin western Mexico peninsula known colloquially as “the French Fry”), founders Pablo Carmona and Joshua Kremer set out to build a landscape-first hotel that would blend seamlessly with its stunning natural surroundings. What they got was a 35-suite property that’s truly unique; an arresting series of brutalist buildings in the exact sunbaked sandstone color of the desert itself, intentionally designed to create a flowing sense of communion with nature.
What makes me special
My superstar chef
The dashing Eduardo Rios, a chef at Mexico City’s legendary three-Michelin-starred Pujol restaurant, wasn’t impressed when he first arrived at Paradero. “I’m a city guy,” he says. “And I was like, what is this place? But the first time I went to catch fish, I fell in love.” It was the start of a very different existence. He now showers in the fresh air, grows desert-ripened tomatillos and poblanos, and hikes across a mountain every morning to collect fresh Pacific fish, oysters and clams straight from the boats. His don’t-miss dish? “The burnt cauliflower. It happened by accident: One day someone left a cauliflower on top of the Josper [firewood oven] by mistake and it burnt. So we tried it with some truffle mayonnaise and lemon and immediately we knew: This is going on the menu. Magic.”
My super-special spa
Nestled in a dense foliage of desert succulents, the award-winning outdoor spa Ojo de Agua is really a series of tents marked by a 200-year-old cactus named La Abuela (The Grandma). Grandmothers are a theme here, with standout treatment the Yenekamu ritual designed by Jorge Kanu, the spa manager, using ancient techniques from the Pericu people—Baja’s original inhabitants. “It uses hip adjustment [your hips store your emotions], plus 70 different desert plants,” he says. “My grandmother was a curandera—a good witch, or a native healer—and she taught me. My first client was an author who was suffering writer’s block with her new book. After the treatment, she was able to write again. It’s very emotional.”
My unique “star nets”
If you’re sleeping in one of the Sky suites, you’ll find on your roof a “star net”—a huge, bolted-on hammock, woven by artisans from the Yucatán, suspended under the stars. The lack of light pollution means Paradero has phenomenal constellation-spotting appeal—bring back a glass of sipping mezcal, grab a cozy cushion and take refuge in the vastness of the sky. To truly reach expanded-consciousness, next-level Zen, book an uber-relaxing private sound-healing treatment under the heavens.
Try overnight catamaran trips, sound healing, and taco tours
My rooms
Choose Garden suites for outdoor concrete bathtubs and desert views; choose Sky for the hotel’s beguiling star nets (see above) and a panoramic roof terrace, with plush daybeds designed for dreamy sunbathing as you watch desert condors wheel overhead. Jute floor pillows, stone surfaces and architectural slants of light create a minimalist, tranquil space. With no room service or televisions, everything here encourages guests to commune with nature, and each other.
My neighborhood
For anyone who seeks out a desert, the lack of a neighborhood is kind of the point. But that doesn’t mean there is nothing to see. The unspoiled Sierra La Laguna mountains (the highest in Baja California) are UNESCO-protected, while the Pacific Ocean is just 20 minutes away, and offers vast, untouched beaches. The nearby town of Todos Santos is worth a visit, with its colorful buildings and art galleries; it’s purportedly also home to the real Hotel California of Eagles fame.
My pool
The concrete infinity lap pool with panoramic desert-meets-ocean views has artisan-crafted jute beanbags to sunbathe on, mezcal martinis on hand and ever-present sunshine (this part of Mexico gets fewer than 10 days of rain a year).
My food & drink
Here, cooking is theatre: the bar is wrapped around an open kitchen and traditional Oaxacan clay oven. Head chef Eduardo Rios has world-class creds (see above), turning out impeccable seafood and vegetable dishes that are as structural and beautiful as the hotel itself. From citrussy ceviche with salty seaweed to the Hanky Panky cocktail (tequila, gin, vermouth and St Germain) served with Parmesan cheese for salty crispness, every detail is surprising, noteworthy and perfectly considered.
My must-do activities
The hotel’s always-on WhatsApp chat has a handy schedule of activities. Even better, most are free, from sunset hikes and beach bike rides to meditation and farming classes. Paid-for activities include overnight catamaran trips, sound healing, group sessions in a temazcal (a Mexican sweat lodge that’s said to transform your skin and mind) and taco tours. The surfboards behind reception are purely decorative, though you can surf on nearby Playa Los Cerritos. But be aware it’s for intermediate and pro surfers only, due to the intense waves.
Meals are enjoyed together in the shade 
Explore Eduardo Rios’s food at the open kitchen 
Cocktails in the sun 
Sun-baked sandstone rooms with desert views 
Long afternoons in shady corners 
The hotel blends into its natural surroundings 
Kick back and feel the desert breeze 
Natural ingredients from the local area 
The perfect spot for sleeping in the sun 
A place for meeting new people 
Fresh produce, grown locally, eaten immediately 
A perfect spot for doing nothing 
Natural fabrics and simple styling 
Take a shower in the sunshine 
The perfect outdoor tub
Rachel Sullivan
Writer
Rachel Sullivan is Expedia Group’s Creative Director of Editorial. Before joining Expedia, she had a career in magazine publishing, writing for titles from Condé Nast Traveller to Brides, Red and The Sunday Times.
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