Maristel Hotel & Spa, Mallorca

By John O’Ceallaigh

Photographs by Simon Watson

November 2023

A weekend inspain

Seek outdoor thrills, then revive and unwind off the beaten track in the Balearics

November 2023

By John O’Ceallaigh

Photographs by Simon Watson

Going to

Travelers

Add a flightAdd a car

On the cusp of the Tramuntana Mountains, sun-bleached Estellencs village may be blissfully sleepy but its setting is thrilling. A paradise for cyclists, it’s encircled by ribbons of hairpin bends while jaw-dropping panoramas of carob, pine, and almond trees and the sparkling Mediterranean surround it. Though it closes for a few months each winter, the rest of the year Maristel Hotel is a laid-back hideaway with an adventurous streak, and it bridges these two worlds beautifully. On-site yoga retreats, transformative spa treatments and reviving views mean the atmosphere is relaxed and easy, but just say the word and the team can facilitate intrepid hiking, diving, and biking excursions easily.

Find an unspoiled corner of Mallorca in Estellencs

My backstory

A jumble of old, terracotta-tiled stone buildings and cobbled streets where the pace of life moves slowly, little Estellencs village feels as though it’s been left untouched for centuries. Though Maristel is a relatively recent addition to this age-old setting, it fits right in—family-run and largely staffed by locals, it is deeply rooted in this community of just a few hundred people. Alongside recommending activities, team members will happily wax lyrical about their village’s character and traditions. This is a welcoming setting in which to connect with a more historic, untouched side of Mallorca.

Maristel is a laid-back hideaway with an adventurous streak

What makes me special

People enjoy lunch at the Bar Restaurante Cala Estellenchs on a warm summer day.
My secluded beach
The entire landscape in this area is stunning. The Tramuntana mountain range with its three vast reservoirs is a UNESCO World Heritage Site; while the Sa Dragonera Nature Reserve is an unspoilt island immediately off the Mallorcan coast. And just a few minutes’ drive from Maristel is the rocky, untouched beach at Cala Estellencs. Remote, secluded and accessible by foot, you are rewarded with crystal-clear seas, a natural waterfall to bathe in and a small café for refuelling before the steep hike back up.
My cycling community
Maristel is very much a destination for MAMILs—Middle-Aged Men (or women) In Lycra—though they have often dispersed for the day by the time less active guests start thinking about breakfast. With Mallorca renowned as a cycling destination, the proprietors of this mountainside property have done everything they can to cater to this community. Staff advise on the island’s best routes and lead guided rides. Bikes are available for hire, an on-site workstation contains free-to-use tools for tune-ups and repairs, and a washing machine is even provided so sweaty gear can be washed overnight.
My spiritual spa
Treatments at the spa really are intended to soothe the mind, body and soul. They use deliciously aromatic Smell the Planet products from Spanish brand SeaSkin Life, a range of organic, vegan balms and ointments with natural ingredients. A detoxifying deep-tissue massage, the Sun Ritual uses sunflower oil alongside coconut and cedar to smooth the skin and balance the body. Worn-out cyclists can book in for reviving leg work, and the spa’s facilities remain relaxing no matter how busy the hotel might be—capacity is capped at 10 people at any one time. Complementing that offering, the regular yoga retreats cover various styles and proficiencies, and participants can enjoy specially prepared, nourishing menus.

The hotel is at its most zen during its beloved yoga retreats

My rooms

A calming contrast to Mallorca’s customary energizing blues (the island receives about 300 days of sunshine a year), rooms here are finished in muted shades of chocolate and milky coffee; organic Tot Herba toiletries are made locally. All accommodation comes with some type of terrace or balcony, though views vary: Traveler Nest Rooms overlook the village; Cosy Garden Rooms face canopies of native plants; Sunset Hideaway Rooms are best at dusk, when guests can gaze in awe as the Mediterranean turns molten; with 360-degree views and masses of outdoor space, the Penthouse Suite is a knockout setting for family get-togethers.

My neighborhood

It’s not just the team at Maristel who think the surrounding Tramuntana Mountains are special; UNESCO says so too. Ingeniously farmed over centuries, this arid landscape is a picturesque patchwork of terraced pastures, ancient olive groves and red-stone churches. Hiking trails threaded around the hotel range from the arduous to the easy, cycling routes are world class and the coastline is readily accessible—the clear waters are ideal for diving as well as swimming. After a day of vigorous outdoor activity, Estellencs offers a small number of welcoming bars and restaurants for off-site socializing.

My pool

With its fancy contraflow jets and swan-neck cascades blasting out muscle-easing jets of water, the hotel’s indoor spa pool takes its therapeutic responsibilities seriously. The elevated outdoor pool, meanwhile, delivers everything you want from a holiday hideaway. Framed by lemon and orange trees and the surrounding mountains, its sunset-facing loungers have a clear view of the Mediterranean, and attentive staff happily deliver piña coladas and snacks to guests’ seats.

My food & drink

Comfortable and welcoming, Maristel Bistro & Bar serves classic Mediterranean dishes that focus on fresh, simple flavors. A light salad mixes sweet pink strawberries with crumbly feta, pyramids of paella are studded with plump cuts of locally caught seafood, dessert might be a gooey chocolate brownie or fresh lemon cake. In warm weather, meals are served on the terrace and there are plenty of good-value Mallorcan wines to choose from to toast the sunset.

My must-do activities

Maristel is at its most zen during its beloved yoga retreats, with classes held on the terrace or within a bijou studio. Its spa facilities, including a sauna, Turkish bath, and bracing ice-water bucket shower, are available every day. As well as being a popular base for cyclists, it draws a surprising number of birdwatchers—swooping griffon vultures, peregrine falcons and booted eagles can all be spotted locally. The team can arrange wine and olive oil tastings for guests who find the island’s produce has surpassed their expectations (it happens a lot).