Tradition meets tranquility in Tokyo

“Effort never betrays you,” advises a rather stern Japanese proverb. And this is certainly true in the case of Hoshinoya, a Tokyo hotel set in an 18-story skyscraper that somehow manages to feel like an intimate, traditional ryokan and regularly makes “world’s best” lists. Every detail is so meticulously attended to and impeccably choreographed, it can sometimes feel like you’re watching a tirelessly rehearsed performance. 

Dating back to the 8th century, Japan’s ryokans, or traditional inns, are said to be the oldest form of hotel in the world, with omotenashi, a formal type of hospitality, at their heart. The small chain of Hoshino hotels sees itself as a guardian of this tradition. “When you step inside our hotel, you step into another world,” says Masanori Ikegami, the hotel’s general manager. “The door is slowly opened up, you take off your shoes and instantly you’ve stepped back centuries into Japanese ryokan culture, an imaginary world where we will serve you and look after you.”  

Shoes taken and reverently put away, as soon as you feel the traditional tatami mat beneath your feet, you step back centuries from the bustle of the world’s biggest city and into a series of 14 traditional ryokans, one per floor, each with its own dedicated staff, creating an incredible sense of calm and intimacy where traditional craftsmanship meets contemporary design. 

Rooms are tranquil spaces, surprisingly generously sized for Tokyo, featuring low, futon-style beds with custom-made mattresses, an enjoyably involved six-step, oil-free skincare system, black-stone baths, and a toilet that does everything imaginable bar giving you an actual massage. But the true highlight is the traditional onsen—natural hot spring baths—on the roof, where you can float around in mineral-rich water piped from a subterranean spring beneath the hotel, skin softening, face turned upwards to the Tokyo stars above.  

What makes me special