A Weekend In… The Colony Palms
Travel back in time in California
A high-design desert hideaway that’s the right side of kitsch—and a perfect summer escape
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A two- to three-hour drive east of Los Angeles (depending on that city’s famous traffic), Palm Springs was historically a glamorous getaway for movie stars and Rat Packers, bathed in luminous California light and towered over by the 10,000-foot peaks of Mount San Jacinto. And at the heart of it sits The Colony Palms Hotel and Bungalows—a recently restored, discreetly situated gem, where history is ever present, but without feeling kitsch or retro. Check in, order the house cocktail, quietly unwind in the poolside gardens, and feel yourself transported to a different, more fabulous time. Front desk supervisor Brandi describes it as “somewhere you can hear yourself think.”
My backstory
Established in 1936 as Colonial House, the hotel’s early days are shrouded in a murky glamour and rumored speakeasies. Post-World War II, it was renamed Howard Manor and became a draw for visitors including Frank Sinatra, Clark Gable, Humphrey Bogart, Ronald Reagan, and Marilyn Monroe. In 2021, it was acquired by LA designer Steve Hermann of the nearby L’Horizon Resort and Spa and underwent a full renovation with every surface reworked—think vintage lighting, chairs, and tables, and painstaking attention to detail throughout. Now adults-only, the hotel reopened in April 2021.
The Colony Palms is more about doing very little rather than cramming in activities
What makes me special
My colorful cocktails
For a poolside drink, The Colony Palms’ signature cocktail is the Past, Present, Future created by mixologist Kelly David. “It’s a three-layered composition, with three colors representing the past, present and future of the hotel,” explains bartender Emilio. “It is three quarters of grenadine on the bottom; on top of that, we float our mix of cognac, orange, Aperol and gin; and we finish that with one ounce of blue tequila, with pomegranate seeds as the garnish. I like my guests to do the stir,” he adds. “That way they get to have all the fun. I don’t want to take that away from them.” General manager Bruno also recommends the Purple Gang cocktail made with crème de violette.
My fireside nights
As a desert location, Palm Springs is hot and bright during the day, but as soon as the sun drops behind the adjacent mountain it gets markedly cooler and very dark. At which point The Colony Palms’ outdoor firepit makes the perfect spot for some board games. Cozier still is the more formal log-filled fireplace, tucked away by the far edge of the pool, and the perfect place to dry off and warm up after a late-night swim. Both make for an atmospheric end to an evening under the stars.
My sunset hour
There’s no getting away from nature at The Colony Palms, whether in the form of the desert palms and cacti, abundant citrus trees or the kumquats you can eat fresh from the branches overhead. But (literally) overshadowing everything are the mountains under the clear desert sunlight. Hence assistant food and beverage manager Jessica recommending that you make the time to order a drink, take a chair by the pool and enjoy the daily sunset from the bar side of the water. “From 3–5pm, that’s the key time, just watching the sun go down. You get this really nice hour, with the light shining off the pool, and you can enjoy some shareables as the sun goes behind the mountain.”
History is ever-present but without feeling kitsch or retro
The rooms
The Colony Palms has 41 rooms, 14 bungalows and two grand suites—the feature wallpaper differs in each room, but common threads connect them. Guests’ names are engraved on a brass door plate, a perfectly appointed minibar offers Valerie Confections, Kōpū spring water, and On The Rocks pre-mixed cocktails. Green and white patterns repeat, Frette bed linen and robes are standard, and the supersize white-tile showers have Le Labo toiletries. The showstopping Veranda Suite offers a walk-in closet, fireplace and reading nook, and overlooks the pool; it’s “the room for people who like to be in the mix,” says general manager Bruno.
My neighborhood
Downtown Palm Springs is a buzzy, walkable, European-feeling jumble of art, mid-century antique shops focused on the Galleria arcade, marijuana dispensaries, and bars. A giant statue of Marilyn Monroe towers over a side street, while art deco buildings like the Welwood Murray Memorial Library and art moderne-style Cork ’n Bottle Building line the sidewalk. Enjoy an eco-friendly brew at Koffi, check Las Palmas bottle shop for craft beer and natural wines, and On The Mark for incredible deli sandwiches. The unmissable Palm Springs Art Museum boasts 28 galleries and two sculpture gardens. Complimentary bikes are available at hotel reception.
My pool
Open 24 hours a day (and seriously atmospheric by night), The Colony Palms’ main pool is perfect for a warm, relaxing swim beneath the mountains. General manager Bruno explains that there’s a “no speakers” rule poolside, as it’s a spot to unwind rather than a party location. There are green-and-white sun loungers, but if you want to retreat to a private poolside cabana, book in advance.
My food & drink
Under executive chef Michael Hung, The Colony Club restaurant serves reimagined classic Californian food. Eat in the art deco dining room at the marble-topped counter, or grab a poolside table for truffled fries, deviled eggs or the chicken schnitzel with crushed Persian cucumber and radish with a spiced preserved lemon vinaigrette. “People come back for that again and again,” says assistant food and beverage manager Jessica.
My must-do activities
The Colony Palms is more about doing very little rather than cramming in activities. The spa offerings are groundbreaking and holistic (there are reiki treatments, body wraps, ear acupressure, and deep massage—front desk supervisor Brandi recommends the Gua Sha Prana Ritual facial to boost radiance). You can enjoy a glass of champagne on arrival, and attend the popular weekend brunch from 8am (the prickly pear bellini with the in-house syrup and baked eggs are recommended). There’s also complimentary yoga on the lawn every weekend morning at 9am.
Justin Quirk
Writer
Justin Quirk is Associate Creative Director of Editorial at Expedia Group, as well as a writer and editor who has worked for titles including The Sunday Times, The Guardian and Esquire covering music, design, and current affairs. He is also the author of Nothin’ But a Good Time, an acclaimed cultural history of 1980s heavy metal.
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