A Weekend In… Casona Sforza
Poolside magic in Mexico
Feeling the need to reconnect with nature? Drift off into the desert (in deluxe style) at Casona Sforza, Puerto Escondido
Searching for a stunning piece of brutalist design that looks like a cross between a naturally occurring shelter and a futuristic sci-fi fantasy? Welcome to Casona Sforza. This unique property seems to merge with the land around it: Natural materials, stone floors, curved shapes, and tranquil water all coming together in a hotel like no other. Check in, switch off, and forget about the world outside while immersing yourself in Mexican nature at its very best.
My backstory
Casona Sforza was first conceived back in 2010 by owner Ezequiel Ayarza Sforza partly as a hotel, and partly as a project to regenerate the local community and preserve its traditional skills. Ten years later, the hotel finally opened on Mexico’s Pacific Coast, a series of arched stone buildings built around a circular pool, rich in local plants and crafts, and with 100% of profits going back into this community project. The design-led hotel now exists, as the website puts it, “to manifest ourselves as we are… and to enjoy the gifts of our mother Earth, while caring for and worshipping her.”
This unique property seems to merge with the land around it
What makes me special
My untouched beach
Mexico is not short of stunning coastline, but even by the country’s standards, this area is special. “We are located on a still virgin beach that allows whale and dolphin watching in the morning from the terraces and restaurant, special rough waves for professional surfing, and an incomparable peace,” says the hotel’s general manager Ivan. “Disconnecting from everyday life and pampering the soul here is our best letter of introduction.”
My wild nature
Casona Sforza is the perfect base for fully reconnecting with some of Mexico’s most stunning nature. As well as the whales and dolphins visible from the hotel, just 30 minutes away is the turtle sanctuary at Mazunte, while an hour’s journey takes you to the lagoons of Manialtepec and Chacahua. These otherworldly bodies of water are surrounded by mangroves up to 50 feet in height, with waters which several times a year turn bioluminescent and come alive with naturally occurring glowing light. And if you’re feeling especially daring, the nearby nude beach at Zipolite offers the ultimate back-to-nature experience.
My unique wine list
Mexico is most closely associated with tequila and mezcal, and there’s no shortage of high-quality, locally made options. But Casona Sforza is equally tuned in to current trends from high-end European watering holes. “Our bar has a wide variety of biodynamic and organic wines that we are sure you will not find in other places,” advises Ivan. And if you’re feeling more traditional, “the classic and authored cocktails” list, soundtracked by their “environmental musical” playlists, are the perfect pairing for your sunset session.
Check in, switch off, and forget about the world outside
My rooms
The hotel offers just 11 suites in five different sizes (from 485 square feet to 580 square feet), with seafront rooms being the more expensive options. Designed by superstar architect Alberto Kalach, expect tropical wood furniture, neutral colors, daybeds, plunge pools, gentle uplighters, and hammocks with a view. But most notable is the high, arched construction of each room, a structural feature that both futureproofs the hotel against earthquakes, and aids air circulation like a form of natural air conditioning in warmer weather. With so few rooms, Casona Sforza feels more like a small village than a conventional hotel.
My neighborhood
Casona Sforza is situated on the southern edge of Puerto Escondido. Puerto’s reputation largely stems from Zicatela, its legendary, mangrove-shrouded beach to which surfers ventured in the 1970s, and now sits at the heart of a complex of bars, laid-back restaurants and boutique hotels. While growing, Puerto Escondido has avoided the overdevelopment of some Mexican resort towns and still feels undiscovered. The walkways off the beach are lined with rustic restaurants such as Fish Shack La Punta while Agua Salá gives radiant sunset views. A little further afield is acclaimed restaurant Kakurega Omakase, while the Playa Carrizalillo is more swim-friendly than Zicatela.
My pool
The focal point of Casona Sforza is the extremely Instagrammable pool, the stone floor of the circular structure blending into the surrounding lounge areas, cacti, and foliage. Apart from palm umbrellas, the pool is unshaded so during hotter hours, guests in the ground floor suites may prefer to retreat to their private plunge pools (upstairs suites have terraces instead). Non-guests can purchase a day pass to access the facilities.
My food & drink
The hotel’s restaurant is based on farm-to-table principles, working with seasonal produce grown locally using non-intensive processes. The menu is rich with items grounded in Mexican tradition but elevated and updated: Handmade tortillas come from the clay griddle, while insects appear via chicatana and grasshopper salts. A martajada sauce comes in a stone molcajete (a Mexican mortar) with wood-roasted chilis. Recent standouts include the tuna tostadas, while the chef’s table option gives a seven-course Oaxaca-specific menu (minimum 12 people).
My must-do activities
Casona Sforza does feel more remote than its location implies. It’s at the less developed end of the town, which means quiet and privacy, but there’s no shortage of activities. You can take your pick from a full program of yoga sessions, holistic massages, private surfing lessons, monthly tours to the Casa Wabi gallery space, jungle exploration by zipline, expeditions to the mountains with ceramics classes, and beekeeping. Plus, from June to September, you can witness the hatching of thousands of sea turtles. This is a place to switch off, reconnect, and come back fully recharged.
Justin Quirk
Writer
Justin Quirk is Associate Creative Director of Editorial at Expedia Group, as well as a writer and editor who has worked for titles including The Sunday Times, The Guardian and Esquire covering music, design, and current affairs. He is also the author of Nothin’ But a Good Time, an acclaimed cultural history of 1980s heavy metal.
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