An oasis of pure luxury in the desert

Start your stay in the hotel’s elegant bar with a glass of one of their signature zero-proof cocktails: the date, apple and peach iced tea (don’t worry, they do serve alcohol here too). Then, cool off with a desert dip in one of the three scenic pools. 

Traditional desert falconry can be booked through the concierge; this is a good time of day to try it. Horseback and camel riding both have a proud heritage among Dubai’s desert nomads; you can try these for yourself without even leaving the pool and bar area. “We bring horses and camels here every evening, so people can have a short camel ride,” says Le Roux. “It’s great fun for kids.” 

Just a few steps across the sand you’ll find a dazzling outdoor dinnertime extravaganza of galloping horses (these come from the nearby stables belonging to His Highness the Ruler of Dubai), belly dancers, Sufi spinners, traditional live music, and herds of camels. “We have these really cute little camels with long eyelashes,” says Le Roux. “When our guests see them, they are enchanted; I’ve never seen grown-ups turn into children so quickly.” It’s all accompanied by a decadent Middle Eastern buffet of mind-boggling variety and quality.

Watch the sun rise over the endless, undulating dunes with a private two-person hot-air balloon ride. Drink a coffee the Arab way—black, strong and bitter, offset by the sweetness of a single date—and spot camels meandering across the sand. 

Basil hummus, marvelous mezzes, bracing Greek salads and sensationally soft lamb köfte: Zala serves piled-high plates of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern cuisine all day long.  

The rooftop restaurant Ninive offers both traditional Arabic cuisine and a beguiling view of the setting sun. Low tables, lavish cushions and lovingly tended palms make for a lush, chilled-out evening. 

The hotel works with experts from the local university to offer telescope stargazing talks in the desert at night, with the money you spend going towards local good causes. “We set it up as a bedouin area—carpet, cushions—and you lie down with a hot chocolate and enjoy,” says Le Roux. “You can see all the details of the Milky Way. It was just like, ‘Oh my god. This is beautiful.’ I’ll never forget it.” 

If it’s a different kind of star you’re after, another memorable evening activity is the hotel’s open-air cinema (a pop-up in the winter months). Lie back and immerse yourself in a mix of kids’ films and desert-themed titles such as The English Patient. 

Challenge yourself by taking out one of the resort’s purpose-built “fat bikes.” It’s not just a physical adventure: At sunrise, you can see a surprising amount of wildlife. “We’ve got springboks, oryxes, gazelles and interesting bird life on the property; we’re a nature reserve, and we don’t put up fences between us and the desert,” says Le Roux. “Even the tiny things are interesting: the ants, the desert mouse. Guests who’ve done a full-on African safari often say the desert wildlife is, in many ways, more fascinating.” 

Beat the midday heat by taking a trip in one of the hotel’s air-conditioned Land Rovers. “A lot of people are scared of dune bashing,” says Le Roux. “I’ve done it, and it can be quite terrifying. But in reality, it’s very stable, and what you see is incredible. The desert is fascinating: It moves a lot. It resets itself every day, so what you see one day, the next day will be gone.” 

The newly opened spa has a stunning marble hammam, neroli-scented diffusers everywhere, and a range of Middle Eastern-themed treatments, using distinctive aromatics that are native to the region, like oud, sandalwood, rose, argan oil, black soap, and fresh mint. Stretching, yoga and guided meditation are also on offer.