6 remarkable hotel restaurants
From art-lined rooms to unforgettable steaks, these are the hotels where the restaurants are a star attraction
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For many years, hotel restaurants had an extremely mixed reputation. Often the best you could expect was an adequate kitchen producing comforting carbs at unhospitable times of the day, or a starchy, formal room with a less-than-welcoming vibe. But now, an increasing number of hotels are matching—and even outpacing—the best restaurants in their cities. Whether you want locally sourced produce in authentically ancient surrounds, or showstopping courses with unforgettable views, these are the destination dining rooms to book a table at.
01
A taste of history at the Mercer Barcelona
Intimacy meets history at the Gothic Quarter’s Mercer Restaurant: Holding just a dozen tables, this elegant eatery incorporates an ancient Roman wall dating back to millennia-old Barcino, the settlement that predates the modern city. In the private dining room, parties are framed by 12th-century frescos. Chef Xavier Lahuerta’s modern Mediterranean menu infuses traditional Catalan cuisine with deft French touches: Think smoked eel with golden apple and star anise, or roasted ox with orange blossom Dijon mustard. These dishes are artworks that juxtapose beautifully with the sandy tones and calm character of this sophisticated setting.
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02
Famous food at Hotel Greystone, Miami
Hotel Greystone is a one-stop shop for the ultimate South Beach experience. From its authentic Art Deco façade to its location overlooking Collins Avenue, the adults-only property has a beach club, rooftop pool and tropical vibes throughout. And when hunger strikes, guests don’t have to venture far to try one of the city’s most acclaimed dining destinations. Helmed by former Chopped participant Pawan Pinisetti, the upscale Sérêvène serves sustainable fare that incorporates Japanese ingredients and French techniques, highlighted by signature family-style small plates. Kobo, a café in the hotel’s shaded courtyard, offers lighter fare, including grab-and-go options perfect for a beachside picnic.
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03
Elevated eating at the Ojo Bangkok
On the 76th floor of the capital’s King Power Mahanakhon skyscraper and part of the Standard Bangkok, Thailand’s highest restaurant doesn’t just deliver showstopping views. Dressed in gleaming golds and dusty pinks, its double-height, retro-futuristic dining room also serves up bright, bold Mexican specialities infused with discreet Thai influences—expect big-flavor dishes that pack a punch. And to make the experience even better, special-occasion meals here always end on a high: After dessert, diners can sip al-fresco digestifs from the open-air roof terrace while admiring the carpet of twinkling lights draped across the sprawling city.
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04
Natural wonders at Casona Sforza, Mexico
Casona Sforza in Mexico’s Puerto Escondido is a architectural masterpiece, a selection of gently curved, open-faced rooms looking out onto water features and comprised of natural materials and stone floors. The hotel’s Restaurante Sforza is similarly nature-inspired, based on farm-to-table principles, and working with seasonal produce grown locally using non-intensive processes. The menu is rich with items grounded in Mexican tradition but elevated and updated: Handmade tortillas come from the clay griddle, while insects appear in the form of chicatana and grasshopper salts. A martajada sauce comes in a stone molcajete (a Mexican mortar) with wood-roasted chilis. Recent standouts include the tuna tostadas, while the chef’s table offers a seven-course Oaxaca-specific menu (minimum 12 people).
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05
Pasta and passion at Aroma, Rome
If your significant other suggests dinner at Palazzo Manfredi’s Aroma terrace in Rome, you should perhaps prepare for a proposal. Alongside an impeccable Michelin-starred menu, you’ll enjoy ringside seats for the splendor of the Colosseum: if there were a leaderboard for romantic restaurants, this one might top the table. Still, whatever way the evening goes, the flawless Italian dishes are sure to get everyone’s approval—from the unfussy pumpkin tagliolini to the grouper with ‘nduja sea urchins, every one offers full-bodied Roman flavors.
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06
More is more at the Madonna Inn, California
About halfway between L.A. and San Francisco in San Luis Obispo, the Madonna Inn is a gloriously kitsch fantasy that’s built a reputation on its anything-goes design approach and unabashed individuality. Its restaurant—Alex Madonna’s Gold Rush Steak House—is a case in point, with profusions of flowers swirling on its carpets and diners nestled in Barbie-pink booths spread under the branches of a sculptural tree. Be prepared for a visual feast and make sure to arrive hungry: Hefty entrées like bacon-wrapped French filet mignon come with a slew of sides.
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John O’Ceallaigh
Writer
John O’Ceallaigh is a luxury travel editor and journalist, and founder of LUTE travel consultancy.
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