Perfect for…
Vinho tinto and vintage tiling
In the heart of Lisbon, Palácio Ludovice is ideal for those looking to drink in the city’s design history—and its extensive wine list
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“When you think about wine, you think about friends. You think about having a special meeting, or a special love affair.” Luís Santos, general manager of Palácio Ludovice in Lisbon, explains the role that wine plays in Portuguese culture. And it’s this attitude to the drink—as something that’s not just enjoyable, but a crucial part of day-to-day life—that underpins the experience at this hotel.
For almost a decade now, Lisbon has been on the rise as one of Europe’s most loved destinations, thanks to its mix of creative energy and wild coastal beauty. And for visitors wanting to find meticulously restored historic rooms, connections to the local culture, and a perfectly poured glass of local wine, Palácio Ludovice might just be the perfect place.
“Everything we do is related to wine,” says Santos. You see it woven into the hotel’s design, from the carpet motifs to the oversized, antique “bottle” lighting in the restaurant. And, more enjoyably still, in the drink that greets you on check-in, the complimentary tastings with local producers, plus the vast, locally focused wine list overseen by sommelier Miguel Ventura (check the minibar for a far more interesting in-room wine selection than you’d normally find).
Then there’s the building itself—an architectural miracle dating to the mid-18th century. Built by the King’s architect, João Frederico Ludovice, as his own private residence, the property was one of the few structures to survive the massive earthquake of 1755, which devastated Lisbon shortly after his death. Inspection revealed that he had incorporated groundbreaking anti-seismic design elements; much of the city was subsequently rebuilt in the same style.
Since that time, the yellow-fronted Palácio has served as, among other things: a Russian embassy; police headquarters; and, from 1946 until around 10 years ago, the Port and Douro Wines Institute. So when the building transferred to its current owners, they decided that this viniculture would live on in the hotel.
Saving the hotel’s signature blue and white tiles was an early challenge. “There was huge work in order to preserve as much as possible the richness of the original building,” says Santos. The tiles were removed for cleaning and cataloguing before being returned to their original location, and the fountain which once refreshed thirsty horses was restored inside restaurant Federico (the menu here specializes in traditional Portuguese dishes alongside French classics).
With just 61 rooms, Palácio Ludovice still has an individual, boutique feel throughout. The Prestige Suites are the most obviously showy bedrooms, but any of the Deluxe options on the second and third floors with their street views and high windows feel like a special treat. The hotel’s location in Chiado—a joyful jumble of cobbled streets, red-tiled rooftops and rumbling yellow trams—makes it the perfect base for exploring the city. And in every room, the spirit of the hotel’s original designer—and a deep commitment to Portugal’s finest wine—live on.
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The bigger picture
Portuguese classics and fresh, local produce get a French twist. Photo: Alice Gao The light-filled indoor courtyard of Restaurant Federico. Photo: Alice Gao 18th-century elements meet elegant modern design Look out over the city’s sea of terracotta tiled roofs. Photo: Alice Gao No better place for a bottle of local wine and a soak in the tub
What guests say
We loved our stay—the staff were so helpful. We appreciated the welcome with port and wine tasting and enjoyed the bartender’s recommendations. The hotel is easily walkable to shops and sites but in a more authentic feeling neighborhood.
Stephanie, 2-night romance trip
The property was beautifully decorated and recently renovated. Room was large, bed was very comfortable, turndown service with treats was a bonus. Staff were very friendly and accommodating and the breakfast was very good.
Kelly, 4-night romance trip
This is a beautifully restored property with unique and sophisticated flair and design. Service is as outstanding as the building is.
Julia, 1-night romance trip
Justin Quirk
Writer
Justin Quirk is Associate Creative Director of Editorial at Expedia Group, as well as a writer and editor who has worked for titles including The Sunday Times, The Guardian and Esquire about music, design, and current affairs. He is also the author of Nothin’ But a Good Time, an acclaimed cultural history of 1980s heavy metal.
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