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A taste of the real Rome
Immerse yourself in the Italian capital at side-street gem Chapter Roma, where you can soak up local food and nightlife knowledge from those who know the city best
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Tucked away on a side street at the edge of Rome’s historic Jewish district, Chapter Roma is the kind of hotel that you can check into and immediately feel like you live in the city. Maybe it’s because of the in-house cooking classes, led by head chef Alessandro Pietropaoli, where you get hands-on experience in creating the five classics of Roman cuisine (alla gricia, amatriciana, cacio e pepe, carbonara, coda alla vaccinara). Perhaps you’ve accompanied the chef on one of his walking tours into the local markets, or sat at Hey Güey, the rooftop bar where the neighboring houses are so close you can see the locals working in their own kitchens.
Maybe you followed Chapter’s in-house nightlife editor out for an evening stroll around the bars and gelaterias; or even just kicked back in the Hey Baby bar with a dry martini, to wash down spaghetti Ancient Roman from the Campocori restaurant. Whatever your route of discovery, this is a hotel that is deeply plugged into the surrounding neighborhood.
Here, localism really matters: Pietropaoli talks of how, in Italy, not just every region but every little town and district has its own personality, and no dish is made the same way in two places (see our interview, below). And that sense of local identity is strongly conveyed in Rome’s Jewish quarter, with its barely-car’s-width streets lined by pink stone buildings, crooked pavements and palm-filled courtyards. It’s a bustling, busy area with a strong sense of heritage.
However, Chapter Roma has avoided simply being in thrall to the past. The 47-room hotel opened in its current form in May 2019, but the building dates to 1880 and retains original features (the marble floors and ornate bannisters, most photogenically). However, its design has also been modernized by South African interior designer Tristan du Plessis, who added metal, mirrored and textured surfaces, and custom contemporary art pieces (including the only indoor work by acclaimed local street artist Alice Pasquini).
Making it perfect: The head chef
Chapter Roma’s head chef Alessandro Pietropaoli on sharing the passion and tradition wrapped up in Roman food
What makes the food culture here so important?
This is the most ancient area we have in Rome, the Jewish area. All the traditions of Rome basically start from exactly where we are here, especially when we’re talking about cuisine.
What do people actually learn in class with you?
We try to pass on the emotions we have while cooking. It’s not just a classic recipe—everybody can prepare a dish of pasta. What we try to give to them is memories. A lot of our dishes are recipes passed on from a grandmother or grandfather, so we try to bring to them that passion in all the traditions that we have.
What do you think food teaches you about a local culture?
In Italy, every region has its own recipe for each kind of dish. And then every town has its own traditions. It really changes a lot even in just 400 meters. Every person has their own recipe, their own way of preparing something, their own tradition. That’s what you learn.
The rooms themselves have the clean lines and ordered designs of Roman formalism, but with organic toiletries from L:a Bruket, sleep-inducing mattresses from Dorelan, and a QR code on the side of the minibar to furnish you with cocktail recipes to match the bottles before you. The hotel’s corner rooms are particularly sought after, due to the way they flood with natural light.
With strong eco credentials, a commitment to local sourcing, vibey DJs, and a health-conscious on-site deli, Chapter Roma is a perfect example of a hotel taking the best of existing tradition, but freshening it up into something more accessible and welcoming. They’re doing the neighborhood proud—so why not join them?
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The bigger picture
Settle in with a sundowner at rooftop lounge bar, Hey Güey Contemporary accents meet classic style in the hotel’s interiors Bed down for a blissful night’s sleep on Italian-made mattresses Campocori’s chic interiors mix wood paneling, marble and exposed brick Pull up a velvet chaise at the Hey Baby bar
Justin Quirk
Writer
Justin Quirk is Associate Creative Director of Editorial at Expedia Group, as well as a writer and editor who has worked for titles including The Sunday Times, The Guardian and Esquire about music, design, and current affairs. He is also the author of Nothin’ But a Good Time, an acclaimed cultural history of 1980s heavy metal.
What guests say
We really scored with this hotel. It’s smartly designed, and the staff were super friendly and helpful. And the beds! They were the most comfortable of the whole trip. Location was prime—if I come back to Rome I’ll stay in this hotel again.
Ben, 3-night trip
The room was excellent: very clean, comfortable bed, great linens and bath products provided, along with fresh water every day. We were upgraded to a junior suite and it was great! The rooftop bar was awesome, plus it’s close to Campo de’ Fiori market, Tiber River and all that the area provides. Would definitely stay again.
Vicki, 3-night romantic trip
Chapter is outstanding. The staff are friendly, welcoming and professional, the room was stylish and comfortable, and provided a welcome respite when I needed some quiet time. The hotel is well located and all of central Rome is within walking distance. A great modern hotel.
Timothy, 3-night trip
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